Newsletters - December 2009 (Combined Edition)

RANCHO RS9000XL SHOCK ABSORBERS
HOW TO ADJUST AND WHICH SETTING IS BEST

Sam’s not only smiling for the camera. He’s adjusting the ride-firmness of his front Rancho shocks. They’re RS9000XL’s, and as you can see, you just reach in, twirl a dial, and it’s done.

RS9000, RS9000X or RS9000XL shocks have a small ride-adjustment knob fitted to their base. You simply turn the knob with your fingers. No special tools are needed, and you don't need to remove the shock from the vehicle in order to make the adjustments.

Usually it takes 60 seconds to go around and adjust all four units.

The adjustment knob has numbered settings embossed into its face. There are nine positions to choose from. The change in stiffness is no gimmick. There is about 400% difference between the softest setting and the firmest.

Number 1 (softest setting) can be set by twisting the knob as far as possible anti-clockwise. Firmer settings are achieved then by turning the knob clockwise. Position 9 is the firmest.

After you have been off-roading, chances are they could be covered with dirt, grime, or mud, making it hard to see the numbers embossed on the ride-adjustment knob, or the alignment arrow mark stamped into the shock body.

Don't worry. Remember, twisting the knob as far as you can go anti-clockwise takes you to the softest setting (number 1). Then, you can feel the clicks when turning clock-wise from there ( 2-3-4-5' etc.) so you will know which setting you are at. This means that even with your eyes closed, you can adjust the shocks precisely to your personal preference.

Which settings are best for certain purposes?

Usually you make adjustments to the shock, based on four variables.

(1) The amount of weight or load carried. This includes accessories fitted, passengers, gear, tools and towing. Extra weight places greater demand on your 4WD's springs, requiring more control or damping from the shocks to ensure good stability. Typically, under heavier loads, you are using a setting between positions 5-9.

(2) The speed you are traveling verses the terrain type. For example, highway and freeway driving is typically high-speed work and the roads are smooth. In this instance, look to firmer settings for more sports-car like handling. Firmer settings provide better control at high speed, and because the roads are smooth, little spring action is required - so tight control over the springs is OK.

(3) Inherent characteristics in a vehicle type. Like people, most vehicles have their quirks. Suspension systems not excluded. (Too soft. Too stiff. Too jerky etc.) On some vehicles with IFS (independent front suspension) there’s often complaint about how soft the front-end control and handling is. With the Rancho adjustable shocks fitted, you can dial the units firmer to compensate to a reasonable degree. Or, if the vehicle's springs are notably stiff, you can soften the shocks in a lot of circumstances, for a much more comfortable ride.

(4) A combination of all the above. Driving on gravel and corrugated roads often requires good control and handling (firmer settings), yet some 'give' in the suspension (softer settings) is also required or the vehicle may track and skitter.

To achieve the best compromise between control and comfort, the load in the vehicle, the speed you are traveling at, and the inherent characteristics of the vehicle all play a part in deciding which settings are ideal.

From experience, in any situation, you are always looking for as comfortable as possible, while maintaining good stability. Mantra... You are always looking for as comfortable as possible, while maintaining good stability.

I recommend that when you first receive your Rancho RS9000XL shocks, set them to mid-range (position 5). This is probably closest to the amount of control you get from the original factory-fitted shocks. Then, from this mid-range setting you can simply 'up' or 'down' the shocks according to your needs.

Don't be afraid to try different settings front/rear. Usually our customers will play with the shocks like a kid with a new toy for a few days. Then they will have confidence in the settings that they choose.

If externally ride-adjustable shocks sound too complicated, too fiddly or too much hassle, remember only a little bit of experience is required before you master the settings.

Plus, if you purchase another type of shock, and don’t like the way they ride – what do you do?

JOHNNY B'S NEW-FORMAT WEBSITE - IT ROCKS!

We’re pretty excited about the launch of the new-look 4WD1 website.

For the last 6 months, Johnny B has been heads-down, thumbs-up, planning, designing, revising and tapping the keyboard late into the night….Cheers and beers to you JB.

Below are a few screen shots of what to expect, or simply go to www.4WD1.com

Even if you don’t know a thing about computers, or ordering stuff online, we’ve made it super-easy to look up what you want, make an intelligent purchase decision, check-out and pay.

To start buying online, you don’t have to sign-up to anything, or start an account. Just shop by vehicle type (left hand side of page) until you get to a catalogue specific to your model.

The layout of the vehicle-related pages is nice and clean. You can easily compare options and pricing.

When you find what you want, click the ‘buy’ buttons next to the appropriate products, then press ‘check out and pay’ and follow the prompts.

Don’t forget that 4WD1 is a real business, run by real people. If you have any questions, feel free to phone, fax or email us anytime – or drop into the 4WD1 warehouse.

Online orders over $100, are still free-delivery to any destination is Australia, so it costs you no more to make purchase from far-north Queensland, than what a counter customer pays at the Sydney store.

We look forward to serving you in the future.

4WD1. ARMOURED VEHICLE SPECIALIST

4WD1 has a reputation as a specialist to the armoured vehicle sector for up-rated suspension systems.

When you think ‘armoured 4wd’, it’s easy to conjure up images of a Landcruiser/military tank cross-over, complete with side-guns and ceramic shields. In fact, most armored 4WD vehicles (from the outside) look absolutely stock. The protection plating is usually behind the vehicle’s body panels, and can include replacement flooring, plus the use of specialized window glass.

While the vehicles may look like they just rolled off the showroom floor, in the case of say, a 105 series Toyota Landcruiser, a typical B6 conversion adds about 800kg. Add 5 blokes and their gear, and it’s easy to get past the 1200kg mark, hence the need to compensate for the extra weight and change in vehicle dynamics.

Good armoured-vehicle conversion specialists and sales companies work to an internationally recognized standard, and have their work independently tested and certified. The work is graded to a specific level of protection. The European standard uses an alpha-numeric description (levels B4, B6 etc). You don’t have to be smart to work out that the greater the level of protection, the larger the caliber and velocity of projectile that can be defended, and that the more serious the threat, the more comprehensive the armor protection must be.

It is interesting to note that demand for armoured 4wd vehicles is not limited to use by the military, but includes peace-keeping forces, security firms, and ‘high-profilers’ for their political position, business or celebrity.

In the fist decade of the “noughties”, war and terror around the world, plus the expansion of industry into countries with turbulent political environments, has seen demand for armour-protected passenger vehicles increase significantly.

The increase in demand has brought many opportunists to the market. Not all firms being equal in their performance. There are plenty of small work shops and ex “chop-shops” grabbing the current opportunity. It’s like “pimp-my-ride” for some, rather than the business of saving lives.

As one of our North American customers says, “So many stereo and trim installers look at an armoured car and say “Hey I can do that”, not knowing a thing about armour or vehicle integration…It is truly scary to see some of the vehicles we have to “compete” against with buyers that decide on price alone….not experience and certified testing results…”

Similarly, if you’re an armoured vehicle conversion specialist, service shop, or parts supplier for armoured vehicles, 4WD1 is not the cheapest place to procure new suspension components.

The key to good performance from the suspension is the quality, combined with the bore-size of the shocks or struts, and the appropriateness of the springs' rating (stiffness).

In the case of the typical armoured vehicle conversion, it’s not just the guys in balaclava's that are the enemy – it’s the new curb weight, together with use on unsealed roads.

HOW TO PHOTOGRAPH YOUR 4WD

Whether it’s for a classified ad or the shed wall, here's a few tips to make an image of your pride and joy worthy of going “straight to the pool room”…

(1) Clean your 4WD really well. Scrub the wheels of brake dust and wash under the guards and flares too. Dress the tyres and bumpers with Amor-All protectant (we’re not a sponsor). Clean the inside of your windows of grease and smear.

Presentation is everything. Pretend your vehicle is going for a job interview.

(2) Pro-photographers can take hundreds of shots to get “one” they really like. The idea is that "film" is cheap, but time and opportunity is expensive.

Here’s some reverse-psychology for you and me…When taking photos of your 4WD, imagine every shot will cost you $50. Yep. 50 bucks a pop.

Basically, this helps you think about the shot you are taking, whether it be the lighting, the background, or general composition. Does the bonnet of your vehicle have a telegraph pole growing out of it? Does the back of your car look jacked 4 inches more than the front? Can you see yourself in the reflection of the paintwork?...

(3) The best time to take photos of your 4WD is early in the morning or late in the afternoon. At these times, the light is softer and more diffused. This means that the vehicle will be more evenly lit (little or no shadows) so you can see more detail and the shot looks natural and relaxed.

Taking photos of your car in the middle of a hot day is a tough gig. Everywhere is reflection and glare. High-lights are contrasted by dark spots and shadows. Your camera (any type) does not have the same ability as the human eye to interpret such a wide latitude in lighting conditions. Often, an overcast day is better than a sunny one to take good vehicle shots.

(4) Backgrounds or settings should help the vehicle to stand out, rather than compete for attention. A clean, clear blue sky is always a winner. If you had a bright red vehicle, a green bush scrub background can work. If you don’t have a good background to work with and your camera has manually adjustable exposure settings, you may be able to set the aperture wide enough to blur the background and make the 4WD (which remains in focus) stand out.

(5) Get on your knees… Or better still – your belly. Avoid taking pictures from normal eye stance. Getting a bird’s-eye view (or an ant’s) makes for an attention-grabbing, dynamic shot. Regular success comes from shooting at a 30’ to 45-degree angle from vehicles front bumper ends while crouched. This allows you to depict the whole vehicle, and improve it aesthetically.

(6) Fill the frame. It’s all about the car. Make your fourby take up the whole picture space. Experiment with some different angles, both horizontally and laterally. Some angled shots can really bring some extra dimension to the photo and the sense of movement or readiness to “go”. Other angles may simply make your vehicle look sad or bogged down, or stuck on a hill. Look at the shots in the magazines or on car manufactures websites. What compositions and angles are they shooting at?

(7) Try your flash…Even in daylight, using your camera’s fill-flash or forced-flash can help increase visual detail and provide a more even exposure.

These tips don’t cover everything about photographing your 4WD, but are a good start to getting some nice results.

Below are some examples we have taken recently. If you have some pics that you would like to share with us, please email them to me a kirk@4wd1.com

OUTBACK ARTIST

When you mention Broken Hill many people would also think of Pro Hart.

There is no doubt ex-miner Kevin ‘Professor’ Hart helped to put the outback town on the tourist map, and this inspired dozens of other artists to call ‘The Hill’ their home.

But the highly-skilled Broken Hill artist, Geoff DeMain, should be first and foremost when people talk of outback paintings and sculpture.

Born in Cunnamulla Qld in 1953, Geoff studied painting at East Sydney Tech, attended life drawing classes at Broken Hill TAFE, and then travelled around India, Europe and Australia, prior to obtaining a degree in Fine Arts from the SA School of Art in Adelaide.

Since 1983, Geoff DeMain has taught drawing, painting, linocut printing, sculpture and Aboriginal Art and Culture at Broken Hill TAFE. His works have been displayed in dozens of group and solo exhibitions and he has been commissioned by many government departments, community groups and businesses throughout the outback.

Ray photographed a few of Geoff’s street murals that are on display outside the Centre of Community in Broken Hill.

THAT WAS THEN THIS IS NOW
FROM 4WD KIDS TO 4WD MEN

Here’s a blast from the past.

This photo was taken in 1987. Yours truly is on the right (age 14), JB is on the left (age 11). I think we were selling general 4WD accessories at an outdoor car show.

I’m not sure if you can read our hand-written sign of “Bargains”, but a quality, 9m Aussie-made snatch strap cost 48 bucks.

In 2009, we sell a better-quality Aussie-made snatch strap for $58. That’s a pretty small increase given the 22 year period.

An impressive 4WD colouring book cost five bucks. Today the same one is $11.

I don’t remember our ‘lemonade-store’ type 4WD stand being a financial success. The hot-dogs tasted good though.

How things have changed…

To buy a quality 9m Aussie-made snatch strap online. Click here.

To buy a 4WD colouring book. Click here.

A ‘heads-up’ on the colouring books….Be quick….. We only have 12,478 original copies left!

Not long after arriving on Norfolk Island I needed to see a doctor. With directions, it was explained that, as it was a Sunday, I needed to see THE doctor.

He was the resident at the small barrack-style hospital just a short drive from the airport. In fact, with an area of less than 35km², everywhere is a short drive on Norfolk Island.

When I arrived at the hospital, the nurse ushered me into the doctor’s office. I was impressed with the bloke straight away. He welcomed me like an old friend and instantly put me at ease. And it was the first time I had been consulted by a doctor who was dressed in just a tee shirt and shorts. And had bare feet!

“Do you have medical travel insurance?” he asked. I told him I did. “Good. You’d be surprised how many tourists don’t worry about it. They think, as we are an Australian External Territory and we have an Aussie post code, they will be covered by Medicare or whatever private fund they’re with.”

The doctor explained that Norfolk Island does not have the facilities to cope with severe injuries or critical medical emergencies. When these occur, the patient has to be picked up by a business jet chartered from Sydney.

Island residents are covered for this by a local medical scheme; but tourists who do not have travel insurance have to cough up around $30,000 to pay for the plane and its specialised crew.

I remembered this visit to the doctor as I was having a conversation with Ian Badham, the co-founder and director of CareFlight. Ian told me that, in addition to its well-known medical-emergency helicopters, Careflight charters jets to retrieve patients from remote destinations throughout Australia and from many South Pacific islands. And the thirty grand I was quoted just covers the cost of fuel, aircraft rental, and wages for the crew and the medical team.

What was I doing at CareFlight? Well, the organisation is a charity and it relies on donations from many sources to keep operating. The Range Rover Club of Australia (NSW) members were handing over a cheque for $3200 - making a total of $22500 they have donated to CareFlight in the last few years.

Here are some other interesting facts I discovered on the day:

CareFlight employees monitor all Triple 0 calls, 24 hours a day/365 days a year, and will respond to any incident that could be life-threatening.

Where a child or an elderly person is involved, they do not wait for a request from the ambulance, fire or police services. They just go. Generally, the time between a call being made, and a helicopter being in the air with a doctor and paramedic on board, is just a few minutes.

The ability of a helicopter to reach a destination, regardless of the traffic conditions, can mean the difference between life and death. In many cases the CareFlight team can attend to a patient well before an ambulance arrives at the scene.

And here is an amazing fact: If an ambulance ferries a patient to hospital there is usually a hefty fee. If CareFlight takes the patient to a hospital no fee is payable.

To supplement the donations, and to create a steady cash-flow, CareFlight has become a highly-regarded teaching and training facility. They were the first non-hospital organization to be accredited and CareFlight is now a sought-after career path for specialists and registrars. And, in recent times, the training has been expanded to include members of the defence forces.

Ian Badham explained that it was not an easy task to train a person to do the correct thing at an accident site, a disaster area, or any other situation where life is at risk. Ian said you cannot train a doctor ‘at the scene’, so ways and means have to be devised to try and replicate a real-life scenario.

Here are two:

1. As it is not feasible for the trainees to work on a real person, CareFlight has purchased a $50,000 dummy. But this is no ordinary dummy. It can be computer programmed to be almost life-like. It ‘breathes’, has a heartbeat, has ‘veins’ that can be injected, and its pupils dilate and react to light. It probably does a lot more than this, but my head started to spin when Ian explained that, if the trainee didn’t use the correct medical procedure, the dummy could replicate death. Then, from the data stored on the computer, the trainee can see where a mistake was made. Amazing!

2. CareFlight has also modified a car that can simulate a variety of severe accident damage results. Viewed from a distance the vehicle looks stock standard, but closer inspection reveals slots cut into the body of the cabin. Into these slots the trainers can insert metal panels to make it difficult to reach the dummy passenger. This gives the trainees experience of treating people that are trapped in extremely confined areas.

With the amount of time 4WD club members and enthusiasts spend on and off the road, a donation to a charitable organization such as CareFlight would be well worth considering. The Range Rover Club of Australia (NSW) has always set an example in this regard. In addition to the amounts donated to Careflight, they have raised, over many years, around $100,000 for the Royal Flying Doctor Service.

5 OFF-ROAD TRAVELLING TIPS
YOU DON'T USUALLY HEAR

(1) One of the best “recovery” items you can carry with you is a credit card.

Serious!

Don’t like them? Don’t want one? We understand, but if you are stuck somewhere and have access to a phone, you can usually order up (like a pizza) the help you require, whether it be a spare part to be air-freighted out of a major city, a towing service, or to pay a mechanic for an unexpected repair.

And, these days, you can’t even book a spot at a caravan park, or a motel, without first providing your credit card details as a deposit

If you don’t trust yourself not to use it for another type of emergency (like running out of beer) freeze the card in a big block of ice and keep it in the bottom of your Engel. That’ll give you at least half an hour to think about it.

(2) Have a budget.

Fairly regularly we receive phone call from people traveling around Australia, who have busted their original suspension, or a brand or solution we don’t sell.

When they calculate the cost of the right product, they often freak out. They don’t have the money. They’ve spent it, and they’re wondering how they will get home.

Without raining on the spirit of adventure, traveling on-road or off, costs money. Include Murphy’s Law in your budget and plans, and your touring should be relaxed and fun.

(3) Check out your jack before you head away.

On a 4WD wagon with a suspension kit and taller tyres, the factory-supplied jack may not be suitable due to the new contact raised height.

If you face this problem in the middle of the bush (or anywhere really) a simple wheel change can become a major drama. So, test your jack for suitability and reach to the axle, chassis or specified jacking points.

Hi-Lift style jacks are popular with 4WD owners because of the extended point they can lift from. These jacks are a great product, but can also be like a ‘brown snake’ in the hands of the inexperienced. Check these free Hi-Lift training clips here.

(4) Sleep is unique. Rest before you head away.

You see the ads on TV, but few people take driver fatigue seriously.

This time of year, the risk increases. You’re working hard, there’s the pre-Christmas madness. You’re juggling extra responsibility. You might be planning for Christmas and its festivities and you’re also going away. If you’re like me, by the time you get to Christmas day – you feel stuffed.

People don't necessarily become fatigued from driving – they're already tired when they get behind the wheel. Long hours, shift work, lack of sleep, and physically demanding roles all take their toll on drivers. So to have a safe (and more enjoyable) journey, try to get more rest in the weeks before the big trip.

(5) Test all your gear before you head away. Know how to use it.

Suspension, an electrical product, something inflatable, something waterproof, anything with a function – Make the time to test it before you head away.

Say you’ve purchased a respected tyre compressor pump kit, which you keep brand new in its box until it’s time to use it. You’re proud of your purchase. It’s known to be a great product. Then, after some beach work, you pull the pump out to re-inflate the tyres and when you flick the switch –nothing!...It doesn’t work…You’re the one in a thousand.

You’re warranty card is not much good to you right now.

You have bought a quality electric self-recovery winch (good idea). You pay for professional fitting, and everything is done really nicely…

Then, you get snagged in the middle of nowhere, with no way out expect for the pulling power of the winch. No problem…. You get out, plug in the controller, attached the cable to a suitable tree with the right gear. You go to power up the winch and there’s nothing. No power. Dead.

Little do you know that all is good (or it would be) if you knew that the winch was also fitted with a manual isolator switch mounted (somewhere) under the bonnet. Its purpose is to prevent the winch being operated unduly. A quick flick would have put you back in business.

In this case ‘knowledge’ really is ‘power’.

FROM STOCK JEEP TO HOT JEEP

Recently, we fitted a 2.5" lift Rancho/Moab suspension system to a 2003 TJ Wrangler. Then we added Rugged Ridge 7" wide extended-flares, Mickey Thompson wheels and 33" tyres.

A picture says a thousand words - so here it is...

(above) The stock TJ (side profile)

(above) As fitted with suspension, wheels, tyres and flares (side profile)

(above) The stock TJ (front profile)

(above) As fitted with suspension, wheels, tyres and flares (front profile)

(above) Old spring versus new spring. Moab's are genuine long-travel design

(above) Ian's hard at work...(rear coil installation)

(above) Rear panhard rod relocation bracket corrects rear axle position

(above) Transmission spacer kit provides proper driveline angles

(above) Front suspension with Rancho RS5000 shocks and steering damper

(above) This is the 'wheely' good part... (sorry)

(above) 16x10" Mickey Thompson Classic II's and 285/75/R16's

(above) Rugged Ridge 7" flares bolt up just like the originals

(above) The finished look is so nice